MIL-DTL-43455K
Seam and
Stitches Per
Thread
Thread
Stitch Type Stitching
No.
Manufacturing Operations Requirements
Inch
Needle
Bobbin/
Type
11
Make and set lower pockets. (Cont'd)
a. Turn in lower raw edges of pocket bearers
and welts and stitch to ends of applicable
301
LSd-1
10-14
30
30
pocket piece positioned as indicated on pattern.
Selvage edge need not be turned in.
b. When pocket opening is pre-cut.
(1) Fold coat at cut-opening so that lower
seam allowance protrudes. Align the raw edge
of the welt end of pocket and the cut edge of
301
LSq-2(a)
10-14
30
30
the opening and stitch welt (and top of pocket)
to the lower part of pocket opening. Stitch
should be 1/4 inch from the raw edge.
(2) Turn pocket to inside through opening
forming a 3/8 to 1/2 inch wide welt and raise
301
LSq-2(b)
10-14
30
30
stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from welt to coat joining
seam.
(3) Fold coat at cut-opening so that top seam
allowance protrudes. Position the pocket flap
between the seam allowance of the opening
and pocket bearer with the raw edge of the flap
301
LSq-2(a)
10-14
30
30
and the cut edge of the opening even. Stitch
flap to the upper part of pocket opening 1/4
inch from raw edges.
(4) Turn up coat front and raise stitch flap
through all plies 3/16 to 1/4 inch from flap
301
LSq-2(b)
10-14
30
30
joining seam. Continue the stitching along
both ends of opening with the tongues turned
in and caught in the stitching.
c. When pocket opening is not pre-cut.
(1) Position pocket flap to outside of coat
front with the raw edges aligned with the cut-
301
LSbl-2(a)
10-14
30
30
line, as indicated by pattern. Stitch flap to coat
1/4 inch from raw edge.
(2) Position welt end of pocket with the raw
edge aligned with cut-line and stitch to front
301
LSbl-2(a)
10-14
30
30
1/4 inch from raw edge of welt (and top of
pocket).
(3) Cut opening and tongue notch ends. Turn
pocket to inside through opening forming a 3/8
301
10-14
30
30
to 1/2 inch welt, and raise stitch 1/16 to 1/8
inch from the welt to coat joining seam.
20
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