MIL-DTL-43455K
Seam and
Stitches Per
Thread
Thread
Stitch Type Stitching
No.
Manufacturing Operations Requirements
Inch
Needle
Bobbin/
Type
9
Make undercollar. (Cont'd)
b. Center (+ 1/8 inch off-center tolerance)
301 or
SSa-2
8-14
30
30
buckram interlining under undercollar and
401
SSa-2
8-14
30
50
seam together with a double row of parallel
horizontal stitching across the length of the
slide fastener cut mark. The rows of stitching
shall be 1//4 to 3/8 inch gage with the two rows
of stitching1/8 to 3/16 inch from slide fastener
cut mark.
or
c. When using the alternate fusible material
for collar interlining, center the interlining
under undercollar and fuse together for the
entire length of the undercollar.
d. Cut slide fastener opening as an alternate,
when fusible collar interlining is used the off
center tolerance shall be + 1/8 inch, tongue
notching each end of opening.
e. Turn under raw edges of slide fastener
opening 1/4 to 5/16 inch. Position folded
edges of opening on slide fastener tape 1/8 to
301
10-14
30
30
3/16 inch from back edge of chain and stitch
1/16 to 3/32 inch along folded edges and ends
of opening catching the tongue notched ends in
the stitching.
f. Bartack both ends of slide fastener with a
1/2 to 7/8 inch bartack, with the stitching
28 per
Bartack
30
30
superimposed on edge stitching. The bartack
bartack
shall not be caught in or catch stitching of any
unrelated operation (see Table VI, defect 205).
g. Position the 2 to 2-1/4 inch hook portion of
nylon fastener tape on the right end of
undercollar (as worn) as indicated on pattern
301
LSbj-1
10-14
30
30
and stitch on all four sides, 1/16 to 1/8 inch
from edges, overlapping the ends off stitching
at least three stitches or tape may be stitched
with two 1 inch box stitch patterns.
h. Position the tape end of collar tab on left
end of undercollar, as indicated on pattern, and
301 or
LSbl-2(a)
10-14
30
30
stitch or tack tab with a 1 inch bartack the
width of tab to undercollar through interlining
42 per
Bartack
30
30
with stitching 1/8 to 3/16 inch from raw edge.
bartack
Turn tab toward front and raise stitch or tack
and 301
LSbl-2(b)
10-14
30
30
the tab with a 1 inch bartack 3/16 to 14 inch
from folded edge.
18
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