MIL-DTL-43455K
Seam and
Stitches Per
Thread
Thread
Stitch Type Stitching
No.
Manufacturing Operations Requirements
Inch
Needle
Bobbin/
Type
9
Make undercollar. (Cont'd)
i. Position the 1 to 1-1/8 inch hook portion of
nylon fastener tape on the undercollar to
correspond with the loop tape tab when it is
301
LSbj-1
10-14
30
30
folded towards back. Stitch the hook portion
of tape on all four sides, 1/16 to 1/8 inch from
edges, overlapping the ends of stitching at least
three stitches.
j. Make two vertical buttonholes in the under-
44-46 per
collar and interlining (for classes 1 and 2 coats
only), as indicated on pattern, with the inside
buttonhole
30
30
Buttonhole
edge of tapered end 1/2 + 1/8 inch above collar
including
tack
seam. The purling shall finish on the inside of
undercollar.
10
Make bi-swing back.
a. Form inside pleat of bi-swing, as indicated
301 or
OSf-1
8-14
30
30
on pattern, with the material face to face and
401
OSf-1
8-14
30
30
stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded edge.
b. Form outside pleat of bi-swing, as
indicated on pattern, with the material back to
301
OSf-1
8-14
30
30
back and stitch 1/16 to 1/8 inch from folded
edge.
c. The bi-swing may be turned to finish
301 or
SSa-1
6-14
30
30
position and stitched across shoulder 1/16 to
401
SSa-1
6-14
30
50
1/8 inch from raw edge.
d. Stitch across bottom end of bi-swing pleat
1/2 to 1 inch from bottom edge and parallel
301
SSa-1
8-14
30
30
with bottom edge. The stitching shall be
through the two inner plies only.
11
Make and set lower pockets.
Finished appearance. The lower pockets
shall be uniform in size, placement and
appearance; the width of openings and depth of
pockets shall be uniform. The flaps shall be
uniformly set and stitched. The top of pockets
shall extend to the waist tunnel and be caught
in the bottom row of the waist tunnel stitching
(see operation 16). The pockets shall not
extend below bottom of coat.
19
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