MIL-DTL-6279M
3.4.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks, skipped stitched, run-offs, or bobbin runouts occur during
sewing, the stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitch a minimum of 1/4 inch
back of the end of the stitching (see Note).
b. Except for prestitching, thread breaks, or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off
stitches noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The
stitching shall start a minimum of 1/4 inch in back of the defective area, continue
over the defective area, and continue a minimum of 1/4 inch beyond the defective
area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be repaired
by removing the defective stitching without damaging the materials, and restitching
in the required manner (see note).
NOTE: When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be
backstitched.
3.4.3 Types 401, 501, 502, 503, 515, 516 and 517 stitching. Thread tension shall be maintained
so that there will be no loose or excessively tight stitching resulting in puckering of the materials
sewn. 301 stitching may be used to repair 401 stitching.
3.4.4 Automatic apparel equipment. Automatic apparel equipment may be used to perform any
of the stitch patterns, provided the requirements for the stitch pattern, stitches per inch, and size
and type of thread are met; and at least three or more typing, overlapping, or backstitches are
used to secure the ends of the stitching.
3.4.5 Threads ends. All thread ends shall be trimmed to 1/4 inch maximum length.
3.4.6 Bartacking. Bartacking shall be 1/2 ± 1/6 inch long, 1/8 ± 1/32 inch wide and shall contain
28 stitches (minimum). Bartacks shall be free from thread breaks and loose stitching.
3.4.7 Patterns. Standard patterns to be used to cut working patterns will be furnished by the
Government (see 6.3). The working patterns shall be identical to the Government patterns.
Neither the Government patterns nor the working patterns shall be altered in any way, except
that additional notches for use during constructions are allowed on the working patterns. Also,
minor modifications are permitted where necessary when using automatic equipment. These
modifications shall not alter the dimensional, serviceability or appearance requirements cited in
the specification. The standard patterns provide an allowance of 3/4 inch for all seams except
sleeve inseam which shall be 1/2 inch. Unless otherwise indicated in Table IV, seams shall be in
accordance with these seam allowances.
3.4.7.1 List of pattern parts. The components of the parka shall be cut from materials, as
specified herein in accordance with pattern parts required.
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