MIL-DTL-44419A
3.11 Construction.
3.11.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching types shall conform to
ASTM D 6193. Seam allowances shall be maintained with seams sewn so that raw edges, twists,
pleats, or puckers will not result. All seams shall start and finish evenly. Ends of a continuous
line of stitching shall be overlapped not less than 1/2 inch.
3.11.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all external seams and stitching, when not caught in other
seams or stitching, shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread tension shall be maintained
so that there will be no loose stitching resulting in loose bobbin or top thread, or excessively tight
stitching resulting in puckering of the materials sewn. If not backstitched, then separate 1/4 inch
bartacking can be used to prevent unraveling.
3.11.1.1.1 Repairs of type 301 stitch. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks or bobbin run-outs occur during sewing, the stitching shall be repaired
by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inches back of the end of the stitching. When making
these repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.
b. Thread breaks or two more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches noted during inspection
of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a minimum of 1/4 inch back
of the defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a minimum of 1/2 inch
beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively tight stitching shall be
repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the material and restitching in the
required manner.
3.11.1.2 Type 401 stitching. As an alternate, lining package (interior) can be sewn using Type
401 stitch. Ends of all external seams and stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching,
shall be backtacked not less than 1/4 inch. Thread tension shall be maintained so that there will be
no loose stitching. If not backstitched, then separate 1/4 inch bartacking can be used to prevent
unraveling. All repairs shall be made in accordance with 3.11.1.1.1 a. and b. Repairs to Type 401
stitching may be accomplished by use of stitch Type 301.
3.11.1.3 Zigzag stitching. A 3/4 inch nominal double 304 type stitch shall be used to secure
the elastic take up on the back of the wrist.
3.11.2 Stitches per inch. Use of Type 301 or 401 stitch shall have 912 stitches per inch.
3.12 Manufacturing operations requirements. The manufacturer may adjust their
manufacturing operations to meet their need but shall adhere to the Government furnished
patterns.
3.12.1 Use of automated apparel equipment. Automated apparel equipment may be used to
perform any of the operations provided that the seam and stitch type are as specified and the
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