MIL-DTL-31008A
The ends of a continuous line of stitching (except on labels) shall be overlapped not less than
three stitches.
3.5.1.4 Sewing tolerance. A tolerance of (± 1/16) inch will be permitted for 1/4 -inch gage and
5/16- inch gage stitching. A tolerance of (+0 or 1/8) inch will be permitted for 3/8-inch gage
stitching. A tolerance of (+0 or 1/16) inch will be permitted for raise seam 1/4 inch gage. A
tolerance of + 1/32 or 0 inch will be permitted for stitching 1/16 inch from the edge.
3.5.2 Corded beading in slide fastener covers. The edges of the slide fasteners covers shall have
a cord beading (see 3.2.12). The outer beaded cloth edges of the slide fastener closures shall be
flush with the slide fastener scoops. The scoops, when locked together, shall be completely
concealed by the beaded covers.
3.5.3 Heat sealing. Seams and stitching, as indicated in table III, shall be sealed with heat
sealing tape on the inside of the jacket. The entire width of the seam tape shall be uniformly
sealed over the seam or stitching. All seam tapes shall be applied without tension and shall be
applied so that a minimum of 1/8 inch overlap is on both sides of the sewn seam and the back
knit of the laminated fabric adjacent to the seam tape shall not be melted to expose plastic film
layer of the laminated fabric. All seam tapes shall overlap a minimum of 3/4 inch at joining
points and all seam tape or taped cross-over areas shall be spot sealed without additional repair
tape in accordance with seam tape manufacturer temperature, time and pressure
recommendations for application with cross-over heat sealing machine. As an alternate, spot
sealing for taped ends can be eliminated if hot-air seam tape machine can automatically cut and
seal ends of seam tape without any loose ends. However, spot sealing for taped cross-over areas
shall remain. Sealed seams, cross over areas and sealed stitching shall show no leakage, tape
ends (including sides of tape) shall show no signs of lifting, curling, bubbling or separation more
than 1/8 inch of tape top knit shrinkage such that the tape middle layer is exposed when tested
initially.
3.6 Manufacturing operations requirements. The jacket shall be manufactured in accordance
with operation requirements specified in table III. The contractor is not required to follow the
exact sequence of operations provided the finished jacket is identical to that produced by
following the sequence as listed in table III. Minor modifications are permitted where necessary
when using automatic equipment. These modifications shall not alter the dimensional,
serviceability or appearance requirements cited in the specification.
TABLE III. Manufacturing operations
No. Description of Operation
Stitch
Seam and
Stitches
Type
Stitching
Per Inch
Type
1. Cutting
a. Cut jacket in strict accordance with
patterns furnished. The cloth shall be laid
in uniform lengths, with care taken in
spreading the material so that the plies
will not be stretched of full and so that
one side of the lay will be even. The
patterns shall be laid in accordance with
the directional lines (warp direction)
indicated on the patterns.
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