MIL-DTL-31008A
TABLE II. List of pattern parts - Continued.
Material
Pattern nomenclature
Parts Cut
Pocket flaps
2
Protective fly
1
Epaulets
2
Insulating cloth
Front
2
(see 3.2.8)
Back
1
Topsleeve
2
Undersleeve
2
Twill cloth
Lower pocket
4
(see 3.2.11)
3.5 Construction. The construction shall conform in all respects to the requirements specified in
table III and herein. Figures 1 and 2 are furnished solely for guidance and information purposes
only. When inconsistencies exist between the written specification and the figures 1 and 2, the
written specification shall govern.
3.5.1 Stitches, seams, and stitching. Stitches, seams, and stitching used in the construction of the
jacket shall conform to ASTM D 6193. Whenever two or more methods, seams, or stitches are
specified for the same operation, any one of them may be used. All seams shall start and finish
evenly. Seam allowances shall be maintained so that raw edges, run-offs, twists, pleats, puckers,
or open seams will be no tight or loose tension. The looper thread (under thread) of stitch type
401 shall be on the inside of the jacket.
3.5.1.1 Type 301 stitching. Ends of all stitching shall be backstitched or overstitched not less
than 1/2 inch except where ends are turned under or caught in other seams or stitching. Ends of a
continuous line of stitching shall overlap not less than 1/2 inch. Thread tensions shall be
maintained so there will be no loose stitching, resulting in loose bobbin or top thread, or
excessively tight stitching, resulting in puckering of the material sewn. The lock shall be
embedded in the material sewn.
3.5.1.2 Repairs of type 301 stitching. Repairs of type 301 stitching shall be as follows:
a. When thread breaks, skipped stitches, run offs, or bobbin runouts occur during sewing, the
stitching shall be repaired by restarting the stitching a minimum of 1/2 inch back of the end of
the stitching. 1/
b. Except for pre-stitching, thread breaks or two or more consecutive skipped or run-off stitches
noted during inspection of the item shall be repaired by overstitching. The stitching shall start a
minimum of 1/2 inch in back of defective area, continue over the defective area, and continue a
minimum of 1/2 inch beyond the defective area onto the existing stitching. Loose or excessively
tight stitching shall be repaired by removing the defective stitching without damaging the
material, and re-stitching in the required manner. 1/
1/ When making the above repairs, the ends of the stitching are not required to be backstitched.
3.5.1.3 Thread breaks and ends of seams. Thread breaks (all stitch types) shall be secured by
stitching back of each end not less than 1/2 inch. Skipped stitches or thread breaks of stitch type
401 may be repaired using stitch type 301. Ends of all seams and stitches produced with stitch
type 301, if not caught in other seams or stitching, shall be back tacked not less than 1/4 inch.
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