MIL-DTL-85040D
3.4.3 Seams and stitching. All the seams and stitching used in the fabrication of the drawers and
the undershirts shall conform to Figures 1 through 12, as applicable. The seam and stitch types,
specified in Figures 6 through 12, shall conform to ASTM D 6193. The width of the stitches and
stitches per inch, for the various types of the stitching, shall conform to Table I. Unless
otherwise specified, width of seam stitching shall be (±)1/16 inch.
TABLE I. Stitching characteristics
Stitch type
Width (Inches)
Stitches per inch
101
-
12-16
301
-
8-10
402
7/32
12-16
407
8/32
14-18
503
5/32
12-16
504
5/32
14-18
605
9/32
14-18
606
8/32
12-16
606 modified
8/32
12-16
3.4.3.1 Sewing. Each row of stitching shall be straight and parallel to the seam edge. The
straightness of the stitching, in any row, shall be maintained within a tolerance of plus or minus
1/32 inch. The ends of the Stitch Type 301 stitching shall be backstitched, by overlapping on
themselves, a minimum of ¼ inch. Thread breaks, skips, and run-off shall be overstitched with
Stitch Type 301 stitching not less than one inch. The thread tension shall be maintained so that
there shall not be any loose or tight stitching and the lock shall be embedded in the materials
sewn together. No seam or component shall be twisted, puckered, or pleated and no part of the
drawers or the undershirts, as applicable, shall be caught in an unrelated operation or seam. All
the thread ends, or threads beginning or terminating a row of stitching, shall be trimmed to a
maximum length of 3/8 inch. No raw or cut cloth edge shall be visible. All the seam edges shall
be properly forced out and shall not contain any folds.
3.4.3.2 Bartacking.
3.4.3.2.1 Cuff seams. A ¼ inch bartack shall be positioned and centered across each cuff seam
see (Figures 1 and 4). Each bartack shall contain a minimum of 14 stitches.
3.4.3.2.2 Stirrup attachments. Three ½ inch bartacks may be used on the stirrup attachments in
lieu of a crossboxstitch (see Figure 9). Each bartack shall contain a minimum of 26 stitches.
3.5 Finished dimensions. The dimensions, for the various sizes of the drawers and the
undershirts, as applicable, shall conform to Table II, when determined as specified in 4.2 through
4.3 and Figures 13 and 14, as applicable. The variation in length between the left and right legs,
or left and right sleeves shall not exceed ½ inch in any drawers or undershirts, as applicable.
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