MIL-DTL-44048H
3.4.2 Parts cut from ground shade/printed seconds/mill seconds. Table Ib lists the pattern parts which
may be cut from ground shade cloth, printed seconds, or mill seconds (see 3.3.2).
TABLE Ib. List of pattern parts.
Pattern Abbreviation
Nomenclature
PENCIL PCKT
Pencil pocket
3.5 Configuration. The following specifics are needed to provide uniform appearance, comfort, and
durability in garrison, combat, and operations other than war. End item garment construction and
appearance shall conform to figures 1 through 7 and the finished dimensions (see 4.4.9.1) to maintain
configuration and compliance to end item performance tests (see 4.4).
3.5.1 Seaming. Seaming shall be consistent, exhibit a uniform appearance and conform to the ASTM
D6193 stitch and seam types listed below. The backside of all seams (inside garment) shall be flat with
no protruding seam allowance to create irritation or discomfort. The seams shall be sewn with 10-14
stitches per inch for all outside visible stitching. Overedge or pre-hemming shall be 6-10 stitches per
inch. To maintain durability and functionality, bartacks 3/8 to 5/8 inch in length with approximately 27
stitches are required at the specified reinforcement points shown in Figure 7. Buttonholes shall be eyelet
end, tapered bar, ¾ to 7/8 inch length with 52 - 56 stitches per inch. The buttonhole purling shall be
between tab and flap plies and front facing and front plies, or on the outside of the coat. Eyelets for the
pockets shall have a minimum of 19 stitches each, with the purling on the outside. All material edges
shall be clean finished: edges shall be either turned-in, turned-under, or serged.
Seam Placement
Seam type
Gage
Stitch Type
Side seams, back arm seams, set in
LSc-2
3/16 to 9/32 inch gage
301
sleeves, shoulder seams
or 401
Top Stitching of pocket flaps, collar, left
OSf-1
316 to 1/4 inch from the edge
301
front fly, cuff, front edges
Top Stitching of pockets
OSf-1
1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge
301
Attachment of pockets
LSd-1
1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge
301
Attachment of patches and flaps
LSd-1or
two rows 3/16 to 1/4 inch apart
301
LSd-2
Bottom hemming
Efb-1
1/16 to 1/8 inch from edge,
301
5/8 + 1/8 inch wide hem
Attachment of flaps
LSbk-3
3/16 inch setting with 1/4 inch
301
gage topstitching or
1/16 inch with 1/4 inch gage
Setting cuff
LSd-1
1/8 to 3/16 inch from the edge
301
Setting collar
Ssa-1
1/16 to 1/8 inch from the edge
301
Lsb-1
3.6 Toxicity. The finished cloth used in the coat shall not present a dermal health hazard when used as
intended (see 4.4.7).
10
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